This project came about as a result of a moto X enthusiast, having bought a van with the intention of converting it himself and then realising the complexity of the task and his own time contraints which led him to ask me to design and complete the bulk of the conversion. He would then take on the finishing tasks, such as varnishing and fitting handles etc. himself.
The van was a 52 reg VW LT35 LWB with 175000 on the clock. The owner invested in a re-spray and fitted a new exhaust and overhauled the brakes. The engine seemed faultless despite its high mileage.
The LT35 van was already fitted with 2 windows and a fiamma roll out awning
Upon the initial survey and discussions on the owner's requirements, the priority was to determine the space required to carry 2 moto x bikes in the rear and leave enough space for a double bed over the garage. This would also dictate how much space was left for the livinh space. With the limitations of a panel vans, all of these factors are going to be a compromise. The ideal vehicles for these conversions are an old coach or a luton truck but this then creates storage and licence problems of their own , not to mention the higher coast of such conversions.
We sourced most of the equipment from Autocraft motorhomes and Leisureshop direct. Tanks were sourced with CAK tanks, Lining material from Boyriven, Shower lining material from Wickes, Timber and steel work from local suppliers and plumbing fittings and gas accessories and fittings from local caravan shops.
It was decided that there would be a requirement for a shower and hot water but not a fixed toilet. Because 3 people would want to use the shower in a relatively short space of time, we specified a Rinnai instant gas water heater in favour of the more modern storage types which take time to re-heat. We also specified a 3 way dometic fridge and a microwave oven to be operated from a 240v hook up supply.
Because the over garage bed needed to support 2 strapping lads over a span of 1.6 mtrs we had to contruct a steel frame work that would not sag, attached to the side of the van This was essentially 25x50 steel hollow section supported on 25x25 angle welded to the sides of the van.
The order of work was set out and We gave ourselves 15 working days to complete my task. We re-utilised as much of the existing ply lining as we could and left the ply floor as it was. We removed the steel bulkhead. The van already had a Seitz window in the off side and a fixed rubber mounted window in the side door. The owner had already fitted one rooflight and insulated and ply lined the ceiling. We added a further roof light over the rear bed and had to change the pan head screws used to countersunk ones.
The van ready for the conversion with supplies of plywood & timber inside
I was able to set up with an awning in the owners garage premises. All the materials were ordered by the owner from a list I provided and we ensured that everything was delivered prior to starting work . It's amazing how much time can be wated in having to do multiple trips to B&Q etc and how a job can come to a halt if goods are not delivered on time.
The location with Gazebo set up at the rear of the owners' garage.
The first job was to remove the steel bulkhead. ( all riveted on the earlier VW and Mercs.) and to remove all the ply lining. The ply floor was original and in good condition so I left it as it was. I re-used a large part of the ply later. The seitz window frame had been fitted inside the ply lining so I removed it and built a timber frame in which the plastic inner frame could sit
The existing Seitz sliding window
I then set about marking out exactly the dimensions of the garage and where the appliances would be located. I marked out the location of all the electrics and then ran 20mm plastic conduit thoughout the van and started to thread the relevant cables back to a central position where the battery and the distribution panel would live.
Begining to thread the electrical conduit trough the van frame
240 volt hook up inlet fitted
The next major job was to make the support for the over garage bed. This needs to be rigid to take the weight of 2 adults. so to take 150+ Kgs without flexing. I used 50x25mm box section X members at 300 centres with 25mm angle for the cross members to sit on. I welded flat bar support members to weld the angle section to the side on the van.
Steel supports for the over garage bed welded to the sides of the van
I then proceeded to re-ply the sides in the garage. I used 100mm glass fibre insulation because the owner had already done the roof in this but it would not be my choice of insulation. Better to use 50mm rockwool cavity bats and rigid celotex in the roof. The owner had already fitted a 400mm MPK rooflight and I specified and fitted 2 further 280mm MPK rooflight over where the bed would be and in the shower enclosure.
Toilet bulkhead fitted and sides ply lined leaving bed support exposed.
I then located where the rear bulkhead would be and erected the back wall for the shower enclosure.and refitted the original wheel arch boxes.
The next job was to locate the position of the fridge to determine where the fridge vents would be cut out. The height of the fridge in its final position is critical for the flue to arrive at the vent at the correct angle. Some of the internal strengthening members ha to be cut away to allow the fridge enclosure to be effective.
Positioning of the fridge and vent holes cut out
Fridge vents cut outs exterior view
I then proceeded to complete the rear bulkhead . this was carefully scribed and cut as a push fit and then glued in position with serious stuff adhesive. I also started to build the framework for the overhead locker.
Rear Bulkhead fitted , wheel arches boxed in and Gas locker in position
Before paneling in the sides I took the precaution to run the 8mm gas pipe through plastic conduit trough the internal bodywork I then fabricated a gas locker for 2 x 4.5 Kg Calor bottles from 12mm ply with a loose lid. I drilled a 40mm gas drop hole though the floor and fitted the gas hose. Strictly speaking this box should be lined in Aluminium sheet or asbestolux but being as this is located in a non habitable area of the van I did not trouble with all the extra cost and time.
Gas Locker with loose fitted lid. 40mm drop hole was made directly through the floor
I now proceeded to complete the fridge housing and to run all the gas pipe with the relevant stop cocks for each appliance.I sealed all the ends and did a pressure test prior to proceeding further. Gas leaks are a real pain if you discover them after you have built stuff aroung the pipes. I created a 40mm gas drop in each compartment where a gas joint exists.
Fridge housing completed with gas plumbing in progress
Shower enclosure being errected.
The next difficult task was to fabricate the front bulkhead and the over-cab locker. This is not for the feinthearted who do not have a good command of transfering angles and curves and who do not have a steady hand on the jigsaw ! However, with care, anyone can do it.I used 12mm ply . Made the over-cab shelf first. Then the bottom half of the bulk head. then the top half and finally made the cut outs and then re-assembled the whole thing with glue and screws as neccessary.
Front Bulkhead and over-cab shelf /locker made from 12mm ply
Prior to re-fiiting I tranfered the shape onto a sheet of 3.5mm beech veneered ply and cut his out I left the holes 3mm small. then I glued the ply to the bulkhead and when it was set , trimmed round the holes with a laminate trimmer to achieive a flush finish around the openings.
Front bulkhead being clad in 3.5mm veneered ply
The next tast was to fit the water tanks . I obtained these from CAK 305x305x915mm ( 82 ltr) for the waste tank located in the offside chassis recess under the kitchen and 780x420x268 (81 ltrs) for the fresh water located jus behind the rear axle. I had to drill a couples of holes in the chassis and used some convenient exixting holes to locate hooked over threaded rods which would support an 18mm ply board which would effectively clamp the tanks between the board and the underside of the chassis. I did a complete dry fit then fitted all the fittings. I coated the boards with good quality quick drying exterior wood protection paint and then reassembled the lot and connected the pipes. Almost 2 days work. Its a gutty job and you know all about it the next day!
Fresh water tanks located behing rear axle
I next fitted the Shurflo water pump in a location which can be got at later and for ease of conection to the pipes. Its quite a long run from the back of the van but these pumps can lift 3 meters of water vertically or 9 meteres on the level. So this one was OK.
Shurflo water pump in position under sink and microwave oven
I was now ready to cut out the worktop for the kitchen and to fit the sink and the hob I used a 30mm worktop. Of course you have to buy a 3 mt length when you only 1.2 mts but that's life! Still you've always got a spare piece if you make a mistake with the 1st.
I fitted the single lever mixer tap. these often come with contacts but with a shurflo pump they are not required so they can be cut. If you are doing the plumbing in 12mm semi-rigid tube and pushfits the tails on the taps often come with fittings for 1/2" hose. You need to fit a short piece of hose to the spigot and then fit a hose to pushfit adapter.
Worktop fitted with sink and 2 burner hob in position
I then proceeded with building the seat boxes in 25x50 batten glued and nailed and then clad in 3.5mm vneered ply. the seat lids were made from 12mm ply.
Seat boxes being fabricated with all electrics led back to battery location.
Prior to making the seat boxes the floor was covered with wood effect laminate flooring. But if you were going to carpet the floor you would leave this until last.
seat boxes completed
I now proceeded with making and cladding the overhead lockers . Again these were made from a softwoof framework and covered in veneered ply. quite a painstaking job but satisfying when finished.
Overhead lockers made and clad in veneered ply
Before making the bed over the garage I decided to trim this area with carpet type lining material which was obtained from Boyriven. It is easy to work with provided you have a very sharp stanley blade. you glue it with spray adhesive. we needed 5 cans to do the complete trimming job. When this was finished I glued the steel x members to the angle support and laid 9mm ply on top to complete the bed.
Over garage bed being lined in soft carpet material
Over garage bed ready for use
The next task was to line the interior of the shower enclosure. This was done with T&G PVC cladding available from Wickes. It comes 300mm wide and has a marble effect finish. You need a sharp circular saw to cut it but you can trim with a stanley blade. Again this is a precision job that requires skillful scribing. Measure twice. Cut once !
Shower enclosure in process of being lined in PVC T&G cladding
Prior to cladding the sides the shower tray was reinforced with 12mm ply and positioned and the waste hole cut through the floor in appropriate place. Then the cladding was fitted over so that there wont be any leaks.
Shower tray in position and shower area clad
Cladding completed with rooflight frame replaced
The shower mixer was then fitted and a housing made in the same material with a removable panel to gain access to the tap and the pipes.
Housing for shower mixer - note removable panel for access to tap and pipes.
The outside of the shower enclosure was clad in veneered ply and a set of bi-fold doors were made from 9mm ply clad in veneer on the outside and the PVC on the inside.
The pipes for the water heater were run in a void inside the shower enclosure wall and the water heater was fitted. The instructions say there needs to be 340mm clearance to the ceiling but we put an aluminium lining above and settled for 250mm as the roof light is almost above the heater . Its fairly obvious that the roof light will be opened when the heater is operated. Its not the pretiest of things to have on the wall but I had one in one of my previous vans and it worked great. no need to wait for water to heat up no need to heat up water you may not use. just turn on the pilot. turn on the tap and you get endless supplies of hot water until the water tank or the gas bottle run out !
Water Heater and exterior of shower enclosure with bi-fold doors fitted.
I then made the doors for the lockers from 18mm veneered MDF. I would have prefered 16mm but we could not get it in time. I bullnosed all the edges with the router and when this is varnished its quite an attractive finish and not too time consuming to achieive
Doors made from 18mm veneered MDF fitted prior to catches and handles.
I completed all the connections of the electrics and fitted the Microwave oven The owner was going to fit all the handles and catches as I was begining to run out of time.
Overhead locker doors in position
I now made the seat back and a drop down armrest to make an extension for the bed. An infill board was made up to hook on to the seat boxes to make the extension to a double bed.
seat boxes with back rest and drop down arm rest + distribution panel
Drop down arm rest to make bed extention
Underside of over-garage bed with steel supports
Moto X bike in garage. 2 bikes can be fitted.
That's the project pretty much finished. The owner intends to line out the garage in alu. treadplate as and when funds and time allow and there is the matter of sanding the wood work and varnishing everything. A free standing table was made with a pole fixing and so the van is functional. This project was completed in 15 days with me living on site in my van. Very little time was wasted in running around for bits and pieces and this was largely due to good planning in the begining.